I’m still here!
I haven’t written in a few days, actually since arriving on the square on Tuesday September 13, 2022. As you know we were on time to attend the pilgrim mass at noon in the Cathedral and were fortunate to see the bofumerio swing.
Afterwards we made our way down to the pilgrim credential office, stood in line and eventually presented evidence that we had fulfilled the walk we had claimed to do, thereby receiving our Compostela with our names, in Latin, written upon it.
Following that formality we rushed to our rented apartment in the ever present and sometimes downpouring rain. The apartment was quite suitable and we settled in for 2 nights. As usual Kate, our laundress, proceeded to do 2 loads of wash. The washing machines here take hours and so far appear to destroy clothing. Furthermore there is no such thing as a dryer in these places and what with the incredible amount of moisture in the air it too forever to dry the clothing on the inside line provided.
Tuesday night we had dinner at Malonos as advised by the nuns at the English welcome center and they didn’t steer us wrong!
Wednesday dawned rainy again but we were determined to use our time in Santiago so after a breakfast out in a cafe just across the street, we headed back uphill to the old town. Our first visit was to the tourist office to get info on how to procure bus tickets to Fatima, our next planned destination. We found our way to the bus station only to be told that there was only one seat left on Thursday’s bus. What about Friday? Yes. That can happen. So we purchased our tickets.
I contacted our landlady to see if we could stay one more night but alas, someone else was booked😔 Got on booking.com and found a hotel room near the bus station for one night.
Business done we walked back to the Cathedral to see what, if anything we could see. We were able to get into the church, check out some of the chapels and even the supposed crypt (most recent) of St James the apostle. We also visited the Pilgrim museum were we learned a lot about pilgrims like ourselves.
After walking in the rain all day none of us were excited about finding a place to eat so we went to the store and purchased some tortellini, pasta sauce and a salad to share (also a bottle of wine) and made dinner.
Thursday dawned another damp day. We planned to move our backpacks to our hotel where they said they would store them for the day. As the day proceeded the weather improved and we were able to get tickets for €10 to visit the Portico de la Gloria which apparently is the main door to the cathedral and was designed and carved by Maestro Mateo between the years 1168 and 1211. Near as I can figure out, there is a crypt underneath the Portico of Glory and it’s quite possible that St James was originally buried there and moved to that golden place later. In any event, I can’t share pictures as they were adamant about not touching and not photographing the edifice. So, if you want to see it, you will have to come to Santiago and pay your fare. Or maybe you can Google it. It was definitely worth the visit. So many angels, saints, lost souls, souls in purgatory and animals.
Exhausted from all of this we made our way to a nice little outdoor restaurant - did I mention it had cleared up? Then a bit of shopping and home to our new hotel room located on the 4th floor.
Dinner was Tapas at this most awesome and intimate restaurant that we just happened to find on our own.we shared 3 selections plus 2 deserts, some vino and cafe then home to bed.
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